Installation of hypercharger on honda vtx motorcycle

Click to enlarge. This product was added to our catalog on Tuesday 11 October, Customers who bought this product also purchased. Kuryakyn Universal Econo-Throttle Assist. Complete Sidemount Kit! Freedom Perf. Other products. Write a review on this product! It's not really the big bug-a-boo that everyone makes out of it. You will have three hoses at the air box. Two large and one small that connect on the back side.

One goes to your crank case vent which is located on top of the rear cylinder and looks like a silver box. Locate the two large rubber tubes that come from the Air Box to the tops of the carbs. You will see that they are secured by one ring clamp each.

They both use a single phillips head screw to tighten the large hose from the air box to the top of the carbs. They should be accessable from one side and then the other. But since I have no idea as to how your specific clamps are rotated so I'll just say loosen them.

Remove that bolt and let the "Choke Knob" dangle for now. In Fig. Remove the screws and disconnect the throttle cables them selves from the Carbs. Now look again at the carbs and locate the two large rubber tubes that conect the Carbs to the Cylinders themselves.

Loosen the TOP ring clamp. The one that connects to the Carbs. Do NOT loosen the bottom clamp that connects to the cylinder.

The screw driver is locted in the very bottom middle. My apologies for some of the poor photo quality. At this point, CAREFULLY remove the remaining hoses to your carbs, double checking your labels to ensure you can reassemble your bike completely with as little difficulty as possible. Pull up on the carbs gently to remove them from the rubber hoses attached at the bottom. Then pull the carbs out of the left side of the bike. This will give you easy access to the fuel line.

Your choke cable is the last item to watch for. The more attention you pay in this process the easier it is to get through this. In for a penny, in for a pound. You need to order four extra main jets that are not included in the kit normally. One each. These are the correct size "Main Jets" for the Hypercharger to give a good plug read on my bike. I use front and rear. But who knows, somebody may actually like it tuned for a small bit of the sound that a slightly richer mixture gives and install the and mains instead.

I also have to say that I have no vested interest in Dynojet or anybody related to them. This is the kit that I used and is the only configuration that I have collected any data with. Needle jet settings - The E-Clip on the second groove from the top for both the front and rear carbs. For me at sea level, I get no popping or back firing on either roll on or decel.

Main jet Front - or Main jet Rear - or This would be a good time to talk more about the reason we pressurized the float bowls. When under speeds of 35 MPH or so you wouldn't notice that anything was wrong.

But get above those speeds or give the throttle a good twist, you really feel the bike bog down. Then on the highway, it just feels like it surges. Sometimes getting a more favorable air flow through the filter. Man, it was a "dark day" for me when I ran into these problems.

But what happens is, the air filter will actually pass enough air at a high enough pressure through the airbox to send air through the fuel ventury's and litterally push it back towards the bowl. So that's why we pressurize the float bowls. The pressure supplied to the float bowls has not been measured, but the pressure fitting on the Hypercharger does allow enough air pressure through the tube, keeping a more positive source of air for the float bowls and thus preventing the carberators ventury pressure from doing "the bad thing" to our carbs.

A pressure above normal atmospheric is picked off a point inside of the Hypercharger. The air enters the front and runs smack dab into the filter. Since the filter is round the air compresses at the mold machine points that you saw earlier when you drilled your hole for the pressure fitting. This is how the air is sent to the float bowls at a pressure above atmospheric. With a 70 or 75 MPH wind being stuffed down it's throat, you know it get's to a higher pressure! Sending that air to the float bowls has a dramatic effect on the performance.

After you get it running, pull your Float Bowl pressure hose and see the difference in how your bike runs. One and a half and two turns out on the Pilot Screws is close to factory settings which are almost always lean.

For me the results are a normal smooth operating bike through all ranges of the throttle. My milage is greater than 36 MPG in city. Harley: ''21 XL Models. You May Also Like. Trap Doors. Replacement Filter. Thank you, request received. We are taking orders, shipping daily, and we are here to answer your questions. We encourage the use of our online chat portal or via email, at info kuryakyn.

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